Adhesive Masking Tips and Techniques

Adhesive Masking Tips and Techniques

Here is a blog article dedicated to one of the main techniques of custom painting on vehicles: applying adhesive to create masks.
Each multicolor painting project is the subject of a strategy, a plan carefully thought out in advance.

Here are the main consumables needed
Paper masking tape 24/48
Thin adhesive and flexible PVC lines 1.5 / 3 / 6 / 9 mm
Repositionable transparent adhesive film (30/60 cm)
Hikari Liquid Mask
Scalpel

Through 3 examples of production, with increasing complexity, we will see which was the technique used to achieve the final result (further down on this page)

1 ► Two-tone decor with red line and pearly black background

2 ► Flamming tricolor and Candy red

3 ► Flamming Red Candy and Freehand Decor

When creating layers and colors, there are 2 main rules:
→ Guaranteed adhesion between each layer (Painting must be completely dry then sanded with P500 paper before being covered with masking adhesives and paint)

→ Simplicity and logic (It is often the shortest path that must be favored. Above all, it is important to apply only one color per masking, so as not to create “staircases” and so not to show different color layers when removing the adhesives)

Tips and Advice
→ It may happen that you want to make curves at very acute angles with the flexible adhesive PVC lines. Unfortunately it is common for these fine adhesive lines to come off: did you know that by passing a flame or the heat of a heat gun very quickly over the surface of the line, it is possible to freeze its position and prevent it from warped or peeled off?

→ If you want to avoid the formation of a staircase due to the thickness of the border of a layer of color, there is a very effective method: with the airbrush or paint gun, direct the spray jet at the center of the masking, always avoiding painting directly on the edge of the adhesive. Try !

Example 1: Create a two-tone decor with a line and a pearl effect

How to achieve this decor in the simplest way?

Step 1 ► Apply a bench or light gray background or primer
Step 2 ► Paint the complete room red
Step 3 ► Let dry then sand with P500
Step 4 ► Apply a thin adhesive line and mask the area in red
Step 5 ► Paint the entire room black
Step 6 ► Remove Maskings
Step 7 ► Apply varnish with 5g of red diamond mother-of-pearl

Same case with this painting:

It is possible to draw the lines with a pinstriping brush
but it will be much simpler to:
Step A ► Paint a Blue Background
Step B ► Apply the adhesive lines
Step C ► Paint an all-over yellow paint
Step D ► Hide external areas
Step E ► Apply paint or Candy orange to the interior
Step F ► Remove adhesive lines then varnish

Example 2: painting a stylized tricolor Flamming

This custom painting consists of a metallic Candy red background, with a stylized “Flamming” decoration on the edges.

How to make the white lines?
In what order should you proceed to achieve the best result, as quickly and simply as possible?
Notice that “shading”, which gives an effect of depth, has been done to different areas of the flames.

Step A ► Paint a pure white background (paint or primer). Drying then sanding with P500.
Step B ► Create the Flamming decoration by applying the thin 3mm adhesive lines.
Step C ► Paint the light gray color (2). Drying then sanding with a gray abrasive sponge.
Step D ► Hide the inside of the flames with paper masking tape. Cut with a scalpel at the fine lines, then unhide the outer area of the flames.
Step E ► Apply the dark gray paint (3) to a strip of approximately 20 cm.
Step F ► Create the shadows with pure black using an airbrush, after removing some of the adhesive from the light gray flaming.
Step G ► Remove all adhesive masking. Perform light sanding with a gray abrasive sponge.*
Step H ► Using thin adhesive lines and paper masking tape, hide the entire part of the tricolor Flamming.
Step I ► Paint the area “Candy” red (5) Starting with a coat of aluminum paint then a few coats of “Candy” red*.
Step J ► Using an airbrush, spray a light, subtle shadow following the contours of the masking.
Step K ► After removing all adhesives, apply coats of clear gloss varnish.

* As mentioned previously at the start of the article, it is not recommended to apply several colors on a single mask, because when you remove the masks, 2 problems appear: these are a significant thickness, and the different layers of color visible on the slice. In this exceptional case, it is necessary to sand down this excess thickness then reapply the masking adhesives, and create the shade which will even out and hide the sanded aluminum and “Candy” layers**

Example 3 ► Flamming Red Candy and Freehand Decor

Here is a personalized painting which still uses the Flamming technique with superposition of layers. As with all painting jobs with layers and superimposed colors, the painter executes a plan prepared in advance, after having imagined all the possibilities.

Step A: Create a red Candy paint (1), with a metallic base and a “Candy” red varnish. Complete drying then sanding with P500.
Step B: Applying 3mm thin adhesive lines
Step C: Application of 1 or 2 additional layers of Candy red (2) + black in a light gradient.
Step D: Mask the Flamming with wide adhesive tape then cut with a scalpel.Step E: Application of light gray paint (3) everywhere. Drying and sanding with an abrasive sponge
Step F: Drawing the skulls with airbrush and black color.
Step G: Creating shadows (4) On the decoration of the skulls to create an effect of depth, and also on certain areas of the flames after partial removal of the adhesives
Step H: Removal of all adhesives, and varnishing.

 

A golden tip

When you make complicated decorations and the adhesive lines intersect, it is not surprising to find defects when you remove the adhesives: liquid or sprayed paint naturally seeps everywhere and especially in the gaps at the crossroads of adhesives.

It is of course possible to press with the tip of your nail on the crossings to reduce the possibility of paint infiltration.

One of the most foolproof techniques is to spray clear binder on any areas suspected of being “weak spots,” where paint can seep through.

It is possible to use solvent-based transparent binder or Hydro transparent binder

How to apply white Metal-Flakes paint – A1108

How to apply white Metal-Flakes paint – A1108

This short article will be devoted to thetechnique of painting a white glitter effect A1108.

Vous avez sûrement déjà vu un véhicule entier peint avec un revêtement scintillant comme des diamants et vous vous demandez comment réaliser un tel effet ?

Map of STARDUST® glitter to download

There are polyester metalflakes that are pure white in color, with a matte or shiny finish. Unfortunately these products have a very low shine and will be incapable of creating the shiny coating like a thousand iridescent diamonds that you project.

There are several options among special effect pigments to achieve such an effect, and we will present them to you here in this weekly blog dedicated to Custom paint.

What glitter to create white glitter paint ?

To produce sufficient reflection of light and to achieve this sparkling effect like diamonds, it is necessary to use a metallized flake, that is to say covered with a microscopic layer of silver, aluminum or metal. However, we all know that metals are colored and usually grayish or silver, making it impossible to achieve a white finish.

Here are 3 solutions that allow you to paint a white metalflakes, on any support. The technique is valid both in the field of wall decoration and on body painting.

Whatever the solution, it will first be necessary to apply a white background

A white wall paint

White body primer or white base paint

Implementation

Preferably, we always apply the glitter with a gun or a flakebuster (dry application on a freshly painted wet background) in order to have a homogeneous application.

In the field of bodywork, we can mix these flakes in varnish, or in HS single-component binder, or even hydro body binder

The mixture, i.e. the dose of glitter in the total weight, depends on the type of glitter.

1/ Cosmic metalflakes glitter

Completely transparent, these glitters can be applied to a white background without changing the background color. They will go almost unnoticed in the absence of direct light. The Cosmic glitter lit by the sun or a lamp, will reflect the light, and not only that, because they will create a colored reflection.

The glitters from the Cosmic range are available in 5 transparent versions creating single, double or triple colored light reflections.

This type of material is perfectly UV resistant and non-yellowing.

Consumption : 25-50g / Liter

Thickness: medium (25-50µm)

flakes-blanc from STARDUSTCOLORS on Vimeo.

 

2/ Diamond mother-of-pearl

Here is a solution which this time uses very sparkling glass pearls thanks to their composition and their base material. These Diamond pigments available in a wide variety of sizes (100 , 200 , 500, 1000µm) and they are totally white and transparent. The choice of reflection color is given, and white reflection is available.

One of the great advantages of these glass particles is their great finesse and their ease of application. The fine thickness allows for easy and quick varnishing.

Thickness : fine (10-15µm)

Consumption : 10-30g / Litre

 

 

3/ Silver white MetalFlakes A1108

Here is the product that will allow you to create identical surfaces resembling diamonds sparkling in all directions. This way of reflecting light in all angles is characteristic of Metal Flakes: These polyester flakes have a certain thickness, and they overlap a little in all directions, which causes this very particular sparkle which occurs in all directions.

The metalflakes A1108 is the only one in its range that is transparent, so it lets the color of the white background show through. Its secret is that it includes a microscopic layer of silver on its surface, which allows it to reflect light very strongly.

Consumption : 50-80g / Liter

Thickness : medium (50-70µm)

Create an interior or exterior wall painting with white glitter

By mixing A1108 glitter with acrylic binder (provided it is shiny) it is possible to create a magnificent shiny and glittery wall.

Lime green crystallizer and candy – Custom paint on tank by @imbry

Lime green crystallizer and candy – Custom paint on tank by @imbry

 

Crystal effect paint creates an effect of depth. This optical illusion effect is reinforced as soon as a colored transparent varnish is applied above. The Candy color varnish intensifies the relief impressions produced by the crystals.

The painter Sandro Cucuzza, alias @imbry shows us here an interesting demonstration of the Crystallizer effect :

 

Create two color zones using adhesive masks

With the Crystallizer, it is easy to create areas of crystals. The painter can freely choose to start with the crystallized background, or on the contrary to achieve the effect last.

In the custom painting highlighted in this article, the painter Sandro Cucuzza chose to use an area in chrome paint and an area in crystalized effect

It is particularly interesting to reinforce the trompe l’oeil effect, by creating a shadow which follows part of the masking, to give the impression of an opening in the tank.

It’s a simple and effective technique that can be done with a mini spray gun or an airbrush and a little black paint. To be successful, the shading must be very light and subtle without trying to be too blatant: the best technique is to spray a regular line freehand, targeted on the masking adhesive, rather than aiming directly at the limit between the masking and painting.

 

Candy colors on the crystal effect :

There are two possibilities when preparing a custom painting project with the Crystalizer :

Either choose a so-called dark color, such as blue, red, Chloro green, or even black !

Either choose a light color, such as yellow, orange or lime green.

In the first case, we obtain a discreet and barely visible effect, which is revealed when a ray of sunlight hits the bodywork,

In the second case, Candy gives a bright, intense and energetic color.

The undercoat for the Crystallizer

Any pearl or metallic color can be used, as long as it is reflective and clear. For example, we can use a pearly white color, or gold, or chameleon, or even chrome!

Likewise, the shading color can be chosen freely, but remember that its purpose is to cause maximum contrast with the background color !

To contact the painter, author of the creation :

Creator Sandro Cucuzza

Insta: @imbry

Facebook : @sandro.cucuzza.3

TikTok : @imbry68

“Magma” guitar made with Marblizer and Candy Red paint

“Magma” guitar made with Marblizer and Candy Red paint

Here is a paint job done by the artisan luthier Remige Lutherie.

The Special effect chosen is the marbled effect “Marblizer” which is a relatively simple paint to apply and which gives an impressive visual effect. Its optical effect of depth is amplified when applying a colored varnish “Candy” to its surface

We invite you to discover all the stages of the work carried out with brillo by Remige Design in its video below.

Like every week, we have the pleasure of presenting to you, through an interview, a talented applicator who uses a special effect paint on a particular support.

@stardustpaints Marblizer – peinture marbrée avec candy rouge @remigedee ♬ son original  – stardustcolors

Applying the Marblizer

It is a manual application which is carried out with a sheet of cellophane which is dropped on the surface freshly covered with a thick layer of products. The plastic sheet can be removed and reapplied several times within the 30 second time interval after applying the marble effect, in order to modify and cross the patterns, or to remove material.
The product has a silver appearance and gives maximum contrast with the black background: the silver particles reflect the light, while the black background catches the light.

Applying Candy varnish

With a choice of twenty Candy colors available in the range of Candy Stardust paints, it is possible to color the Marblizer effect in any shade. In general, 3 coats are necessary to obtain intense color and a significant depth effect. If more layers are applied, the damage will continue to darken until it reaches a transparent black color.

Interview and presentation with Remige Lutherie

How many years have you been working as a luthier professionally? What is the name of your brand?

I have been operating since 2016 under the name Rémige Design/Lutherie.

Do you make instruments entirely? from A to Z ?

Yes it’s even my main activity, I work with clients on demand, no project is really alike!

What type of string instruments do you make?

I make electric and acoustic guitars and electric and acoustic basses.

About your customization work on a Guitar with Marblizer effects? What difficulties have you encountered? and what are some tips and advice that you can share with those who would like to try the “Marblizer candy” technique on their guitar?

I first had to discover the product that I didn’t know at all, I had to understand how to use it and what it allowed to do, it dries very quickly it’s not easy to do exactly the desired patterns before the latter freezes, it is also necessary to open the flow of the gun to avoid having only dry extracts which dry even faster.

How did you achieve this special finish on this Morphée Guitar?

Here it is a poplar burl table (a kind of tumor that grows on a tree) tinted with colored inks then varnished, the pattern of the wood being already very spectacular at the start, it takes little to create an exceptional finish

How many instruments leave your workshop each month?

I would rather say each year, an instrument takes on average 3 months to manufacture, it’s around 2/3 instruments per year, obviously these are unique and exceptional works.

Can we have an idea of price for a personalized instrument?

It’s very variable, there isn’t really an upper limit, the higher the range the materials and the violin making the more the price goes up, we can go from around 2000 euros for a very simple instrument with quality equipment, to 6000/7000 € for an instrument like the AFD which is made of exceptional woods and whose violin making is very complex. Inflation doesn’t help matters by pushing up absolutely all prices…

How do you make yourself known to your customers? Where can we see your physical or online store?

I started by making videos on Youtube, after a while and working hard with drastic quality requirements, people who appreciated my work helped me to make myself known, I then settled on Instagram which is ideal for the visually spectacular aspect of my activity; I am now also trying to establish myself on TikTok and evolve with different media, I always demand an atmosphere of sharing and kindness, my workshop is located in Olargues in Herault (34) and my website remigedesign.fr is for the moment only a means of contacting me because I have no commercial activity but only artisanal.

Instagram : remigelutherie

TikTok : RemigeDee

Steps and tips for successful crystallized paint

Steps and tips for successful crystallized paint

The Crystalizer is a completely exotic product among all existing products in the world of decorative paint or bodywork. It allows you to create a surface with patterns of crystals, and when combined with the Candy technique (transparent colored clearcoat), the Crystalizer produces a real illusion of depth, a sort of crystallized optical illusion effect.

It is possible to use the Crystalizer technique on any surface, any primed material, and on objects or devices of any size : motorcycles, helmets, countertops or tables, joysticks, video console, sculptures…

What exactly is the Crystalizer ?

It is a liquid product, based on alcohol and also containing a salt ; during its evaporation, the product creates a crystallized surface, with slight reliefs formed by crystals.

The product once dry is very delicate, and can be removed with a simple rinse. This decoration can only be fixed with a light coat of black paint*, before the rinsing phase. During cleaning, we just “decapitate the edges of the crystals” and only the deep areas retain the black paint.

 

Setup for a Crystalizer effect succeeds

It is possible to use any colored background, as long as this background color will contrast with the shading color.

It is much more interesting to use a reflective paint under the Crystalizer and a colored varnish, in order to reflect the light well and create a luminous and powerful color.

  • Usually aluminum paint is used.

However, you can use mother-of-pearl, Chameleon, chrome, glitter…

Attention ! It is not recommended to apply the Cristalizer directly on the aluminum paint. The latter produces a surface composed of metallic micro flakes which overlap in all directions and it does not form a favorable and ideal surface for the propagation of crystals. It is therefore important to have a varnished bottom, to obtain a smooth and perfect surface.

Of course it is necessary to sand the dry clearcoat with 400 grit paper. This will allow the crystals to adhere well. With a finer sanding, the crystals come off the surface too easily when rinsing.

Application and drying

It is not a paint, so it is unnecessary and not recommended to apply this product with a spray gun, making multiple coats and expertly applied !

No, you just have to wet the surface copiously, all at once and as quickly as possible. Especially if the temperature is over 20°, in which case crystallization can develop rapidly.

It should not be disturbed or covered with a second layer.

So once the part has been well covered with the product, the excess can possibly be evacuated, by leaning or shaking the part (if this is possible of course).

On very large surfaces, such as a boat, for example, we will try to apply the right dose, and we will move all around the boat as quickly as possible.

Successful crystallization is done with a dry and warm atmosphere. On the contrary, it is impossible to succeed in the application in a humid and cold atmosphere.

  • You can keep the Crystalizer dry as long as you want without covering it, provided you store the piece in a dry environment.

Shading

It is convenient to use a solvent-based paint.

As for the color, it is necessary to use a solid color, not transparent, not pearly, and sufficiently different from the background color.

It is important to apply the right amount :

If you apply too little paint, the decor will be too light.

If too much paint is applied, rinsing and cleaning will require too much pressure and insistence, and this will always risk washing away the fragile crystals.

  • The Crystalizer does not form any thickness after rinsing because it simply disappears.

It is important not to delay after applying the paint, to clean it with water and an old abrasive sponge. A well-worn dish sponge is ideal !

Beyond 2 or 3 minutes, it will no longer be possible to clean the crystals without applying too much force.

When practicing the technique on large surfaces, it is necessary to act with 2 applicators, one to apply the paint, and another applicator which follows immediately behind to carry out the cleaning without delay.

Once the black crystallized decoration has been cleaned and sanded with an abrasive sponge, it can be varnished or left as it is, for as long as needed.



Coloring and clearcoat

A Candy varnish is used, to choose from among the 24 Candy colours, and depending on the number of coats, the final color will be more or less dark.

2 types of effects are possible : discreet, dark and deep finishes, and finishes with bright and intense colors that will make the crystal decoration very visible.

On a classic crystallized decor in aluminum and black colors, the most vivid colors are Green, Yellow, Orange.

Dark and deep colors are Reds, Violets, Blacks, Browns, Blues.

With the latter, the effect is particularly discreet and is revealed when the sun hits the paint.



 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Chameleon Interference effects in painting

Chameleon Interference effects in painting

There is a unique collection of 38 references in the Stardust® range, leader and pioneer in Europe in the field of Chameleon colours.

“Chameleon” paints, formerly known as “Beetle” paints, “Flip Flop” paints, or even “Colorshift” paints are pearlescent colors that offer changing color reflections depending on the angle from which they are observed.

Among the chameleon colours, there are a certain number which consist of transparent pearls*.

These chameleon paints then take on the appearance of a whitish liquid, which is in truth almost transparent when applied with an airbrush / spray gun.

*The transparent mother-of-pearl is made of a modern synthetic material imitating natural mica. It is more transparent, more reflective, and less yellowing.

Try changing the background color

Usually applied on a black background, in order to reflect only the light of the mother-of-pearl that composes them*, transparent type chameleon paints can be applied on other background colors.

*the black color reflects little or no light.

We are not talking about a pearly or metallic background color here, because due to certain optical phenomena, a mother-of-pearl on another mother-of-pearl, or a mother-of-pearl on a metal pigment, see their effects cancel out.

We can therefore apply a transparent chameleon color on an opaque colored background, red, yellow, blue, gray… In truth, any color, white included.

The effects are quite interesting and surprising. These are innovative finishes in the field of bodywork or decoration, which are perfectly suitable for indoors or outdoors, thanks to the high resistance of chameleons to UV.

Multicolored interference mother-of-pearl

Interference is an optical phenomenon. In the field of painting, it designates the return of a single color, different from that of the background.

Example : a GREEN background + a RED interfering layer

Stardustcolors classic interference colors include red, green, blue, gold, and purple ; these effect products can be found either in powder form with Crystal interference pearlescent pearls, or in the form of clearcoats.

Transparent chameleons created richer effects in terms of reflections, with double, triple or quadruple colored reflections.

Depending on their purity and composition, they will modify the background color very slightly or not at all.

In truth, the darker the background color, the more the interfering chameleon reflection will dominate the visible appearance returned to the viewer of the painted piece.

Diamond-like interfering chameleons

Classic chameleons are composed of fairly fine particles, the size of which is in the average of the pigments used in the world of automotive paint. These transparent chameleon effects have been transposed onto the large diamond mother-of-pearl, which is made of glass, and which has much more iridescent and glittery properties.

Interference chameleon sequins from the COSMIC range

Here are flakes from the Metal Flakes family, made of polyester, which reproduce the same multicolored effects as chameleons. These COSMIC flakes are perfectly transparent and have an advantage over the large classic opaque Metal Flakes flakes : they are thinner and much easier to varnish.

There is yet another spangle, still polyester-based, and still 200µm in size, which is the transparent holographic spangle.

All these effects mentioned above belong to the family of “Interference effects”.

Print a photoluminescent fire safety plan

Print a photoluminescent fire safety plan

In establishments open to the public, such as gymnasiums, museums, hotels, ships but also in certain factories, it is required to install a Photoluminescent PVC evacuation plan in order to guide the occupants towards the exits in case of emergency and especially in the event of lighting cuts.

It can also be safety instructions for the use of fire-fighting equipment, the use of a machine or emergency contact.

A photoluminescent security plan stores ambient light energy, whether natural or electrical, and permanently releases it in the form of photoluminescence : that is to say, it glows in the dark.

European standards govern phosphorescence levels : luminance (intensity of phosphorescence) and remanence (duration of phosphorescence) must be of a class C level. These performance indications must appear on the photoluminescent safety plan.

General sizes

The most frequently printed size is A4. It is possible to print larger plans, depending on the observation distance, and also depending on the complexity and importance of the evacuation plan.

It is possible to order free sizes and formats.

Contact ARCO IRIS SAS at info@phosphorescent.fr for prices and to obtain the printing of a photoluminescent safety and evacuation plan.

The different mediums

In general, evacuation plans are always made on PVC panels. It is a light and economical material, easy to print, and suitable for all interior areas. It is rare to place a security plan in an outdoor area, however, when it is necessary to have an evacuation plan resistant to heat or weather, then more materials such as aluminum are used. or stainless steel as a support.

Printing modes

Screen printing is the method that has been used the most since photoluminescent planes have existed. It is particularly economical and practical when printing a large number of identical plans. It turns out to be less interesting when it comes to printing one, or even 2 or 3 plans, because you have to make a “screen” for each drawing, and each colour.

Today we use more the laser printing method, which allows four-color prints to be made which is quite economical.

The fixing method

The safety boards measure approximately 1-1.5mm thick and are easy to attach to walls or doors, with double-sided adhesive tape. It is also possible to screw them, or even to install them with frames.

The costs

For a photoluminescent PVC evacuation plan, the price varies according to the size, quantity and type of materials.

Initially, as for all printing works, If a single photoluminescent plan is printed, the work of setting up and adjustments will be equivalent to that necessary for the printing of 50 photoluminescent plans.

There is therefore a sliding scale of tariffs.

In addition to the price, which logically varies according to the size of the plan, there are also different costs for the material of the support :

Rigid PVC plans are by far the most economical.

The price range then goes up with the aluminum tops, and goes up again with the stainless steel plates.

Make a phosphorescent outdoor floor with phosphorescent stones, pebbles and gravel

Make a phosphorescent outdoor floor with phosphorescent stones, pebbles and gravel

It’s very easy and the achievement is within everyone’s reach.

Above all, make sure that the area where you plan to embed these small phosphorescent stones is sufficiently dark during the night. If you live in a residential or urban area, with night lighting, then you can forget about this project, because the phosphorescence requires sufficient darkness to be clearly visible.

If, on the contrary, you have a house in the mountains or in the forest, then at night you will be able to see all these small luminous pebbles shining, until dawn.

It is only on a full night, when the luminosity is too high, that you will not be able to observe the phosphorescence.

On the contrary, on a dark night, you will have the impression of walking in the starry sky, when you walk on this floor encrusted with luminescent stones.

Glow-in-the-dark pebbles, how do they work ?

These small stones, gravel, fragments, pebbles contain synthetic and non-hazardous pigments, which are able to react and store ambient light. This energy is immediately converted into phosphorescence, which glows slowly and for a long time :

The release of the energy thus accumulated is done “drop by drop”, and can last up to more than 10 hours of time.

How to set up these phosphorescent stones

We advise you to embed them in concrete, mortar, plaster or cement when it is still fresh. The stone or gravel must be encrusted at least 2/3 of its thickness, in order to remain well fixed over time, and to resist trampling, or even bad weather, such as rain or frost.

When you want to incorporate these small phosphorescent gravels in an already existing construction, then there remains the solution of transparent or colored silicone glue.

It takes about 1 kg of these stones or its fragments to cover up to 3 m². Finally, it all depends on the concentration you want for your decor on the phosphorescent floor.

The different performance levels of luminescent gravels and pebbles

Stones and pebbles are often brighter and their phosphorescence lasts longer at night, compared to gravels.

You also have to take into account the color: by far, the green phosphorescent color is the most efficient, both in its luminous intensity and in the duration of its effect.

Often these materials are offered in 3 main emission colors: Green, Turquoise and Blue.

The company ARCO IRIS SAS, (site phosphorescentpaint.co.uk) offers up to 4 colors, with even purple phosphorescent stones.

The diurnal or nocturnal aspect

The materials have a slightly colorless, whitish, sometimes greenish appearance during the day.

We speak of “emitted color” to refer to the color of the light produced by the stone in the dark. It is indeed a luminous color which then emerges from this colorless stone during the day.

Resistance and composition

These stones and pebbles are relatively resistant, especially the gravels which are composed of glass (silica).

As for the stones, which are produced from plastics of the PS type, they can yellow slightly with the years, however the phosphorescence as for it, is almost eternal: that is to say that it does not drop in intensity with years.

Where to buy these stones here in England ?

The specialist in this field is ARCO IRIS, producer since 2010 : site phosphorescentpaint.co.uk

 

How to repair a scratch on your car or motorcycle ?

How to repair a scratch on your car or motorcycle ?

Here is a summary tutorial to guide you in repairing small tears on the metal or plastic bodies of cars and motorcycles.

We describe here the actions to be carried out for each step, from the repair of the dents to the finishing clearcoat.

1. Shocks and bumps

This type of defect is mainly found on the metal bodies of cars or even motorcycles (tanks). We only deal with slight defects here, that is to say from 0.5 mm and up to 1 cm in depth.

A/ Sand the area with an abrasive grain between P240 and P320. It does not involve stripping and removing existing paint. You simply have to create the right bonding conditions for the primer and the mastic.

Even if the sealants can hang on the metals directly, we always recommend applying a thin layer of primer to promote adhesion to metals and anti-corrosion in a pot or in a spray beforehand.

B/ Apply the putty, previously mixed with its hardener. The mixed putty must be applied quickly because it hardens very quickly. It is important to smooth the surface well and to avoid large overthicknesses, which will give more sanding work.

C/ Sand with a P320 abrasive grain and a sanding block. Wet sanding is recommended. It is imperative to sand with a flat wedge, in order to obtain a flat and regular surface. After sanding, wash the surface with water to remove sanding residue.

2/ How to repair a scratch on your car

Here is the phase following the application of the mastic.

When treating only scratches with a depth of less than 0.5 mm, it is not mandatory to use a filler beforehand.

Apply a filling primer (primer) in a pot or spray, with as much thickness as necessary to cover the defects. Allow complete drying of the primer (2 hours at 20°C). Sanding with a sanding block is an abrasive grain of P500.

For all applications of matt or direct glossy base paints, abrasive grains greater than P500 should never be used, in order to guarantee good adhesion. Again wet sanding allows you to sand longer with the same paper and avoid overheating.

3/ Substrate preparation

In order to receive the paint, the surface must be perfectly smooth and free of micro holes or micro scratches. In the rules of the art of painting, it is important to have a perfectly healthy surface. A sound support means a sanded support, free of moisture, grime, dust, grease or silicone.

Some invisible contaminants can cause blemishes to appear after paint is applied. For this reason it is advisable to use a degreaser.

The degreaser is applied with a clean cloth and must be quickly removed with another clean cloth, before it evaporates.

The last step just before painting, is the passage of a sticky pad, specially designed to catch dust. This sticky cloth must be passed with the weight of the hand, delicately and without forcing.

4/ The painting

The painting is done with an aerosol or with a gun, with passages from left to right, and from right to left, at a fixed distance from the support (10-15cm), and always with an angle of 90° facing the support.

It is important to work in a clean environment, with sufficient air extraction, low ambient humidity, and with a moderate temperature, between 15 and 25°C.

There are 2 paint systems : two-coat paint (Matt base to varnish) and polyurethane finish paint (direct gloss).

A/ Bi-Coat 1C paint

Bicoat means 2 steps : paint + clearcoat.

This type of paint represents +95% of automotive and motorcycle paints today.

This paint can be a solvent-based Hydro formula. It is applied in 2 to 3 coats spaced 5 minutes apart (20°C). For metallic or pearl type paints, it is customary to spray ½ coat in the end. This type of paint is single-component, and dries very quickly thanks to evaporation in the air, in 30 minutes.

It is important to varnish them before they are superficially dry, to benefit from the so-called “wet on wet” grip.

B/ 2C Direct Gloss Lacquer

This type of paint is two-component. It is mixed with a hardener and must be used for a limited time (pot Life). It dries and hardens by polymerization.

It forms a shiny and resistant finishing layer, and does not need to be varnished.

Two-component glossy paints should be applied in 2 glossy coats, each separated by a time interval of 10 minutes.

5/ Varnishing

This last finishing phase concerns only two-coat systems.

Clearcoat is a shiny and transparent lacquer which gives an aesthetic appearance to the paint, and above all which makes it possible to confer resistance to abrasion, bad weather and hydrocarbons: it protects the paint as well as the sheet metal bodywork.

The varnish is always a 2-component product (Clearcoat and hardener).

It is always applied in 2 glossy coats spaced 10 minutes apart.

The varnish is surely the most delicate step to succeed. The secret of a beautiful, shiny and flawless clearcoat is the deposition of the right dose on the surface. Applying layers that are too thin results in an “orange peel” defect or lack of shine. On the contrary, when too thick layers are applied, drips can occur. When the defects are too important, it is necessary to carry out a sanding after 24 hours with water and paper 500 or 800, then to apply a new coat of clearcoat.

The drying of the core clearcoat is between a few hours and 24 hours, before commissioning.

6/ Plastic bodies and fairings

It may be necessary to add 1 to 2% of flexibilizing in the finishing clearcoat on flexible plastic parts. Adding this additive to the varnish of the bumpers makes it more resistant to the impact of stones.

Adding this additive to matt base paints under the clearcoat is optional, as the latter are naturally flexible.

The preparation of bare plastic substrates is special, because adhesion to plastics is often very difficult to obtain. There are special techniques and specific primers to prepare plastics. In general, all plastic-based motorcycle or car bodies are already painted and do not need any special preparation.

7/ Further information

Mixtures

It is very important to shake aerosol paints vigorously before use, and to stir paints in pots thoroughly, with a ruler, before using them.

The mixtures with the thinner, are free and approximate. Thinning allows the paint to be refined and can be made according to the painter’s preferences, the size of the nozzle, but also according to the ambient temperature. There are different speeds of diluent which correspond to the speeds of evaporation adapted according to the seasons.

The diluent mixture is done by volume. Mixing with hardeners should be more precise. It is important to scrupulously respect the indications of the technical data sheet.

In general, hardeners can be mixed both by volume and by weight.

Pot life

it is about the life and possible use of the mixed paint.

For single-component type paints, the addition of the thinner does not induce a mandatory period of use. On the contrary, the diluted paint can be kept for several months or several years.

For bi-component type paints, it is important to respect the working time, which varies between 15 minutes and 2 hours depending on the product. It is therefore important to add the hardener to the paint 5 minutes before application, and to mix only the quantity of products you need.

Drying

Drying and hardening depends on the products, the thickness, and the ambient temperature. For single-component type paints, it is important to monitor the drying time, because they must be covered with a varnish before surface drying, which is 30 minutes at 20°C. For two-component type paints, or varnishes, drying is often slower, and it can vary between 1 hour and 24 hours.

The interval time between each layer is an important point to respect. This waiting time between each layer allows the solvent to evaporate, and also to avoid runs.

“Dust-free” drying is when the paint is dry on the surface.

“Through” drying is the paint’s ready-to-use time, with 90% complete drying and curing

All paints can be sanded after complete drying, to be covered.

How to customize your bike frame with the cromovelato style ?

How to customize your bike frame with the cromovelato style ?

We also recommend that you consult our detailed tutorial: “How to paint a bike ?

This is possible using 2 different techniques, which we will explain to you below in this article dedicated to the technique of cromovelato bicycle painting.

Chromvelato is a gorgeous finish that combines the effect of chrome with a transparent candy-like color.

In the jargon of painters, these translucent colors are called “Candy”.

The principle of cromovelato is simple with a first metallic coat of chrome paint or mirror polished metal, then a second coat of transparent Candy color.

The result of the cromovelato technique is a color from the light that bounces off the chrome paint and is colored with the Candy clearcoat.

Here are the 2 techniques to perform the cromovelato technique on your bike frame.

1. Cromovelato technique with Chrome paint + Candy clearcoat

For this first technique, you will absolutely need to have a paint gun to be able to carry out the colored varnishing.

This technique has the advantage of being able to be carried out on any type of bottom, even carbon, that is to say that you will be able to use your frame of bike stripped or painted with its old paint.

It’s a multi-layered system, here’s the detail :

With the colored chrome bicycle paint kit, you will have all the products to achieve the cromovelato effect.

For this first technique, you will absolutely need to have a paint gun to be able to carry out the colored varnishing.

This technique has the advantage of being able to be carried out on any type of bottom, even carbon, that is to say that you will be able to use your frame of bike stripped or painted with its old paint.

It’s a multi-layered system, here’s the detail :

With the colored chrome bicycle paint kit, you will have all the products to achieve the cromovelato effect.

  • create the grip with a 500 sanding and clean the surface well before painting
  • apply the black base provided in the kit
  • follow in stride with the ceramic clear undercoat necessary for the chrome effect. Allow at least 48 hours of drying. The harder this clearcoat, the better your chrome effect will be
  • apply the chrome paint. It is a liquid paint made up of mirror aluminum particles. It takes a very small amount to cover an entire frame. At least 48 hours of drying.
  • Apply the Candy clearcoat : this is a completely transparent colored clearcoat which allows the passage of light thanks to its dyes. Different from pigments, dyes allow light to pass through and color it. The varnishing technique is the most delicate step and it requires a specific way of applying the varnish in order to maintain the chrome mirror effect. This is explained in the paint kit page.

2. Cromovelato technique On the raw and polished metal frame

Here is a method accessible to anyone and which does not require a spray gun. This paint can be applied, in a single step, with the two-component varnish aerosols offered by the Stardust Bike range.

This technique is only possible with steel or aluminum metal frames.

The first step will be stripping the frame to get to bare metal.

It will then be necessary to polish the metal to obtain a chrome effect. The glossy frame will perfectly reflect the light and your image like a mirror.

All polished metals are particularly difficult to snag. If any paint or varnish is applied to their surface, then detachment is assured. Most metal adhesion primers are not effective on chrome or polished metals.

You have to use what is called a primer for chrome, transparent in nature and very thin, which is called silax. This very specific product can be found in aerosol or jar format.

Here are the 2 steps :

  • apply the silax, in one or two thin coats. Do not wait to cover this primer which dries particularly quickly, i.e. apply the next coat within 2 or 3 minutes.
  • Apply the Candy clearcoat, in 2 or 3 coats.

The multicolored cromovelato effects

Candy transparent colors make it very easy to make fades and gradients.

This is particularly interesting with neighboring colors in the color spectrum :

For example, it is possible to follow a blue with a green, a red with a yellow.

There are also black Candy transparent colors that can be blended with all other colors, of which there are about fifteen available.